ArtResin is best known as a glossy topcoat you pour over flat artwork—but what if your piece isn’t flat? What if it has a round or uneven surface, or something with multiple sides, like a cube?
Good news: you can resin non-flat objects—it just takes a slightly different approach.
Today I’m going to walk you through 4 different projects: a wood lantern, a bowl, a cube, and a sculpture. Each one requires a unique method, and I’ll show you exactly how it’s done!
Let’s get started.
Materials You'll Need
• Non-flat or uneven object to resin: bowl, sculpture, cube etc.
• Painter's Tape: use a good quality tape, like Scotch Blue #2090
• Sealant: for applying over wood pieces to avoid a darker color change (optional)
• Foam brush or old paintbrush: use something you don't mind throwing away
• ArtResin Epoxy Resin
• Gloves, Plastic Measuring Cup, and Mixing Stick
• Maker's Studio Torch: A butane torch for removing bubbles, or use a heat gun.
• Dustcover: A clean plastic tote or an empty cardboard box works well
Project 1 - Lantern
This lantern is made from a hollowed-out stump, and I want to make it weather-resistant with resin so I can place it outdoors. Since I can't pour resin over it like I would on a flat surface (it would run off, waste resin, and create a mess), I'm going to apply it with a brush instead.
Here are 3 key things to keep in mind when applying resin to a 3D object:
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Applying the Resin: Resin has a thick, honey-like consistency that’s perfect for brushing on. Foam brushes are a budget-friendly option since I'll have to toss them out afterward. Sometimes I simply use gloved hands!
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Think About Gravity: As I apply resin, gravity pulls it down, so I avoid applying too much at once to prevent drips. For a thicker finish, I find it's better to apply multiple thin layers instead of one thick coat.
- Work in Stages: If I resin the bottom first, I'm not able to flip it over without leaving marks. So I start with the main body, let it cure for 24 hours, then move on to the bottom.
I start by taping off the bottom of the piece with painter’s tape to catch any drips. Once the resin is dry to the touch, I can remove the tape—and the resin drips right along with it!
💡 TIP: Use the back of a spoon or a craft stick to burnish the tape, pressing it down so it really sticks to the wood.
Next, I prop the piece up on stands. Plastic stands work well because resin drips will peel right off. I use plastic cups turned upside down, big Lego pieces, or the stands from ArtResin's Accessory Kit.
💡 TIP: Resin can darken materials like stone or wood. I always suggest doing a quick water test to check how the wood reacts—if it darkenswhen wet, it likely will under the resin too.
While the darker color can be beautiful, a coat of a clear drying, brush-on sealant (such as ModPodge or PVA Glue) will help prevent a color change. Just be sure the sealant is completely dry before applying the resin.
Now it’s time to apply the resin. While a foam brush works well, the bark here is pretty rough, and it could shred the foam, leaving little bits in the resin as it cures. So, I’m going with an old paintbrush instead.
Since I'm only applying a thin coat, I'm using less resin to start with. This also helps prevent drips! I can always apply more, if needed.
Once I'm happy with the application, I place a dustcover over top and let it cure for 24 hours. The next day, once the resin is dry to the touch, I remove the tape, flip it over, and resin the bottom.
At this point, I’m happy with how it looks! If I wanted a thicker coat, I’d just give the cured resin a light sand, and then repeat the steps as many times as needed until I get the look I want.
Project 2 – Bowl
Bowls are another fun, popular shape to resin. Since the sides are curved—unlike the flat surfaces on the lantern—it's much easier approach to resin the inside and outside of the bowl separately.
Before I resin the outside of the bowl, I tape the lip and the inside of the bowl with painter's tape to prevent any drips. Then, I place the bowl upside down on a plastic stand and apply resin to the bottom and the sides using a foam brush.
Once the resin is applied, I place a dustcover over top and allow it to cure for 24 hours.
Once the resin is dry to the touch, remove the tape. Next, I tape around the outside lip of the bowl, to prevent any resin drips or spills on my perfectly resined surface.
Using a foam brush, I apply a small amount of resin to the inside of the bowl. Keep in mind that gravity will pull the resin down to the lowest point—if you apply too much, it can pool at the bottom and leave you with a thick, uneven layer. Go slowly and use less than you think you need. You can always add more resin, if needed.
Once I've applied the resin, I torch out any bubbles with a quick pass of the torch.
Finally, I cover the bowl with a dustcover and let it cure for 24 hours. The next day, I remove the tape and allow it to cure for another two days before using it—this gives the resin time to fully harden and become food-safe.
💡 TIP: When used as directed and allowed to cure for 72 hours, ArtResin is safe for food contact. You can read more in our blog post: ArtResin Passes Food Safety Tests.
Project 3 – Cube
Now let’s talk about a piece with multiple sides—like this decorative cube I want to resin from top to bottom.
If I simply pour resin over the top and let it drip down, gravity will pull it down, leaving me with a thick coat on the top and thin, uneven coat on the sides. A much better approach is to work in stages, coating one face at a time, until every side is coated.
I start by taping around the top edge to catch any accidental resin drips, then apply my resin. I like using a small spatula to "dome" the resin - that is, to gently guide the resin up to the edge without letting it run over the side.
Once the top face is done, I cover it with a dustcover and let it cure for 24 hours. The next day, I remove the tape, flip the cube so a new side is facing up, and repeat the steps: tape, apply resin, let it cure. Keep going until all six sides are coated.
FRESH TAPE
FRESH RESIN
This method gives each surface a smooth, even finish with a nice thick coat.
💡 TIP: If you apply the resin carefully, the edges where the sides meet should look pretty seamless. But if you do end up with a little bump or gap along the edge, don’t worry—a quick sand with an emery board and a light touch-up with a foam brush will smooth it out in no time.
Project 3 – Sculpture
For my last piece, I have a sculpture that I’m planning to place in the garden. It’s made of a stone-like material, and I want to coat it in resin to make it weather-resistant. Because it’s rough, I’m skipping the foam brush again and using my gloved hands so I can really get into all the crevices without using too much resin. This also lets me smooth out the surface as I go and wipe away any excess to avoid drips.
I’ll start by applying tape to the bottom of the sculpture to keep it clean while I work.
Then I’ll coat the piece using my gloved hands. If you want a thicker finish, you may need to work in layers, letting each coat cure in between. Once the piece is coated, I’ll place a dustcover over it and let it cure for 24 hours.
Once the resin is dry, I’ll remove the tape from the bottom, apply fresh tape around the sides of the base, then prop it up and apply a thin coat of resin to the bottom.
Cover it again with a dustcover and let it cure. Since this piece will be going outside, I’m going to let it cure for the full 72 hours so it reaches its hardest, most durable finish.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!
If you have any questions or tips about how to apply ArtResin to non-flat, uneven surfaces, please leave them in the comments below. We'd love to hear them!
ArtResin: The Original Epoxy For Resin Art.
